Savannah, GA
Eating and Drinking in The Hostess City
In Savannah it’s still 90 degrees in October. I discovered this when I arrived in The Hostess City from New York this weekend, carrying my bag of (suddenly inappropriate) fall clothes. Moon River taxi service will take you from the airport into downtown Savannah proper without even the slightest sense of urgency. From the back seat, while Johnny Mercer played on the radio, I had to take a moment to shed my New York expectations along with my (now much too hot) leopard trench. I was now on Savannah time, and it was time for a drink.
John Berendt’s non fiction book Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil introduced Savannah to the world with the quote “... in Savannah the first question people ask you is "What would you like to drink?”
I settled into a champagne cocktail from Little Duck Diner shortly after my feet hit the cobblestone streets of Savannah’s historic district. And then I took a second cocktail to go. Downtown Savannah has an open container policy, so wherever you’re headed, take a traveler.
What to Do:
First things first: Take the horse drawn carriage tour. It will help you get the lay of the land: The river is north, Forsyth Park is south. Your driver will brief you on how Savannah survived the Civil War by entertaining Sherman and his Union troops for three months in 1864, forever branding Savannah as The Hostess City.
From the carriage you can also scope out antique stores and junk shops you’ll want to visit. It’s a slow crawl around Savannah’s 22 squares (especially riding with 23 year old retired Amish plow horse, Pepper). But remember we’re on Savannah time now. What’s your hurry?
Midnight in the Garden fans will thrill at the chance to visit the sight where Jim Williams shot Danny Hansford. Even if you haven’t read the book, Williams’ 1868 Renaissance Revival home and eclectic art collection make for a fascinating tour. Mercer Williams house was featured in Architectural Digest in 1976 (a decade before its infamous murder) for good reason.
Commune with the dead in the final resting place of acclaimed Savannahians including Conrad Aiken, Johnny Mercer, and many Confederate soldiers. This scenic 160 acre cemetery is filled with oak trees, magnolias, and Spanish moss, running along the Wilmington River. It is prominently featured in Midnight in the Garden (including the book cover).
Say hello to the resident shop cats, browse the shelves of a dozen different rooms, and pick up a first edition by Flannery O’Connor in Savannah’s oldest bookstore. E. Shaver, Bookseller is owned and operated by women and specializes in new and regional titles. I was thrilled by their southern cookbook selection, as well as their comprehensive collection by southern favorite Mary Kay Andrews (IYKYK! Her early novel Savannah Blues is the quintessential southern beach read).
Gallery Espresso is a cozy gathering place filled with couches, tables, and local SCAD students. They have a wonderful coffee and wine selection, but really dazzle with their huge offering of loose teas. I sampled several varieties of white tea, which they served in a genius contraption called the IngenuiTEA.
Where to Eat:
Southern Living recently named Savannah the 3rd best food city in the South (right behind Charleston and New Orleans). Savannah’s culinary scene is an exciting blend of traditional and neo Southern fair. Don’t expect dusty doily adorned dining rooms and every entree served up deep fried.
Located in a beautifully restored Greyhound bus station from 1938 The Grey is undoubtably the current culinary star of Savannah. James Beard award winning executive chef Mashama Bailey hails from The Bronx in NYC, but grew up spending summers in Georgia. She delivers an elevated approach to traditional southern fair, and an exceptional cocktail menu to boot! The rosemary gimlet was a favorite.
You’ll need a car to get to The Wyld Dock Bar, just a short drive from historic downtown Savannah. Or you could pull up on your boat, and dock at the restaurant like a local! Beautiful marshland views, pork tacos worth writing home about, and the best okra I’ve ever eaten. Fresh cocktail menu, too!
Savannah does vegan at Fox & Fig. Dive into their creamy chipotle mac and cheese and beyond burgers with caramelized onions on a pretzel bun. Wow.
I made the rookie mistake of trying to brunch at Collins Quarter on a Saturday. Don’t try that: the crowds will swallow you whole! A weekday lunch is the smarter approach. I was dazzled by their spicy savory short rib hash and southern take on bubble n’ squeak. Also, bonus points for leading their cocktail menu with a champagne cocktail. I ordered two.
HUSK Savannah’s executive chef, Chris Hathcock, is a Savannah native using regional ingredients to ‘redefine what it means to cook and eat in the South.’ I’ve previously enjoyed visiting HUSK Charleston, but Chef Hathcock’s Savannah menu takes southern cuisine to a new exciting and elegant level. The aged duck breast with confit leg and liver paté were favorites.
You may not find Luther Driggers at the soda fountain counter with his flies, but you can get exceptional biscuits and gravy at the cafe that was immortalized in Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil. Arrive early for breakfast since they close daily at 2pm.
Where to Drink:
“Rule number one,” states Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, “Always stick around for one more drink. That’s when things happen. That’s when you find out everything you want to know.”
The sage advice from Midnight in the Garden turned out to be valuable when I dropped into Abe’s on Lincoln Monday evening around 10pm. The crowd was elbow to elbow beneath the dive’s low ceilings (which are covered in napkin portraits of President Abe), and these folks were primarily clad in shorts, flip flops, and baseball hats. I ordered a Tanqueray and tonic, but didn’t think I’d stick around.
Before I finished my drink, the flipflop contingent cleared out all at once, leaving me and a couple of art school kids with spots at the bar.
“Ghost tour,” the bartender volunteered, explaining the mass exodus. Savannah may be the south’s most haunted city, and tourists love a bar crawl ghost tour. Their stop at Abe’s was no coincidence. I learned that it is the longest operating bar in Savannah, since the 1700s, and is undeniably haunted.
My bartender also filled me in on why I had trouble finding a drink in Savannah on Sunday night: the city law dictates that only bars that serve food can operate on Sundays. All of the dives and cocktail lounges are closed. We’re in the bible belt, after all. I was glad I stuck around for another drink, and took a third one to go back to my Airbnb a block away.
This unique building on Bull Street was originally a stable for Savannah’s calvary of Arabian horses, and later a show room for Henry Ford’s Model T vehicles. They serve southern classics like the sazerac and artillery punch, a well as a unique cocktail menu of drinks honoring Savannah, like the gin based Model T and (appropriately) scotch based A Night in the Garden.
Legend has it that in 1978 President Jimmy Carter dropped into Pinkie’s from the nearby Desoto Hotel with a couple of secret service guys, stood on the bar, and thanked the people of Savannah for electing him president. (President Biden might consider doing the same since Chatham county, Savannah’s votes won him the election!). Pinkie Masters is still very proud of the President’s visit, and has plenty of Carter memorabilia decorating its walls.
Pinkie Masters is cash only and a great spot to hang with the locals. Their happy hour regulars all seem to know each other and are more than willing to include you in on the fun.
Plan Your Visit:
Sunday is a good day to arrive in Savannah. You’ll avoid the masses of day tripping weekend tourists and get to enjoy the town like a local. Check into your Airbnb and rest up for a busy Monday. I’d like to live in the Airbnb I stayed in on Lincoln Street (near Abe’s), and will definitely be returning. (Watching the carriage horses heading to work from the patio in the mornings was a great way to start the day).
I’ve also enjoyed staying at The Marshall House in the past, and hear a lot of recommendations for Perry Lane Hotel (with its rooftop bar) and the inexpensive, retro, Thunderbird Inn. Whatever you do, stay in the historic district. It’s entirely walkable and very safe.
For more Savannah intel, listen to The Layman Chef Podcast, Episode 5.
What a fun and interesting post; I've been to Savannah once and didn't spend enough time researching what to do there before going. Since then, I've learned so much about the city that I can't wait to go back and really see the sights.
I’ve been visiting for years since my parents summer in nearby Hilton Head, and the city really continues to evolve! There's always a cool new hotel or restaurant... I can’t wait to go back!